Friday, April 24, 2026

The Journal of Mary Peters Ringo Part I: Leaving Missouri

Martin Henderson Ringo (1819-1864)
Mary Ann Peters (1826-1876)
paternal 2nd great-granduncle/great-grandaunt 
 
The inside front cover of The Journal of Mrs. Mary Ringo; a diary of her trip across the Great Plains in 1864. (Library of Congress) 
 
In 1864, Martin Ringo, and his wife, Mary Peters, made the decision to move from their home in Gallatin, Missouri to San Jose, California. They hoped the California climate would improve Martin's healthhe contracted tuberculosis while serving as a wagon master and freighter during the Mexican War (1846-1848). Mary's sister, Augusta, and her husband, Colonel Coleman Younger, lived in San Jose, which would ease the family's adjustment to their new home.  
 
Another factor that likely influenced the couple's decision was the Civil War. It was in its third year with no end in sight. Missouri was a deeply divided border state that ranked third behind Virginia and Tennessee in the number of battles that had taken place within its borders. Additionally, Union troops were regularly ambushed by pro-Confederate guerrilla fighters called bushwhackers. This group also used robbery, arson, and murder to terrorize Union sympathizers throughout the state and along the Missouri-Kansas border.

The majority of the Ringo's trip was made through U.S. territories. (Wikimedia Commons)
 
– MARY'S JOURNAL – 
 
Like many others, Mary kept a journal during the long trip, writing something almost every day. She described daily life, her concerns about the dangers that could be encountered, the ever-changing landscape, and landmarks along the way. Her daughter, Mattie Bell Cushing, began transcribing the journal in 1942, and published it in 1956. She kept her mother's spelling, punctuation, and capitalization. This excerpt from the foreward was written by Mattie: 
 
On the eighteenth of May eighteen hundred sixty-four, a party of adventurous people started on the hazardous trip across the continent to California. Among them was my father Martin Ringo, age 45 years, his wife Mary Ringo, age 38 years, brother John, age 14 years, Albert, age 11 years, sister Fanny, age 7 years, Enna, age 4 years, Mattie 
(myself), age 2 years.
 
We had two large covered wagons one drawn by oxen and one by mules, we brought a lot of things, a large bed and dresser, a number of heavy books besides all the things necessary for a long trip. My father had been in the Mexican War, was stationed at Sacra-mento for some time where he contracted tubercu-losis and he thought it would be better for him in a milder climate, but he didn't get to live there.
 
Mary was about four months pregnant with their sixth child at the time of the family's departure from Gallatin. 
 

– LIFE ON THE TRAIL –
 
Covered wagons were typically ten feet long and about four feet wide. Family members often took turns walking next to the wagons, since their belongings and supplies took up most of the space inside. If the terrain was rugged, they walked to lighten the load for their teams. The travelers slept in tents, out in the open, or under the wagons. If the weather was particularly bad, the family might even squeeze inside a wagon and sleep on the load.  
 
Progress was slow since oxen and mules walked at about 2 miles per hour. On a good day, wagons could make 20 miles. River crossings, steep inclines, difficult terrain, wagon repairs, and unexpected delays all impeded progress.   
 
Life on the trail was challenging in many ways. Daily routines were more difficult, mules, oxen, and cattle had to be cared for, and finding good grass and water could take a great deal of time. Diseases such as cholera and dysentery, both caused by unsanitary conditionskilled about 1 in 10 emigrants. Accidentsgunshot wounds, falling off a wagon, getting run over by a wagon wheel, and drownings at river crossingswere not uncommon. All these, as well as Indian attacks, were part of most journeys.
 
The weather played a big role in the journey. High winds could overturn wagons. Heavy rain turned trails into mud, making them temporarily impassable, and swollen, fast-flowing creeks and rivers were not safe to cross.
 
Travelers could send letters to friends and family at stagecoach depots, forts, and former Pony Express stations, which often became telegraph stations. (The Pony Express became obsolete after Western Union completed the first transcontinental telegraph system in the U.S. on October 24, 1861.) Supplies were replenished in small towns along the way.

GALLATIN, MISSOURI TO FORT KEARNY, NEBRASKA –
May 18–June 12
 
The map below shows the approximate route from Gallatin, Missouri to Fort Kearny, Nebraska based on Mary's entries in her journal. 
 
  
The Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails all converged near Fort Kearny, Nebraska in the Platte River Valley. It was the most convenient point for people to meet others heading west. The Ringo family became part of a wagon train that eventually grew to have 70 wagons. She began her journal the day they departed Liberty, Missouri. 


 
 
 
 
 
 
By 1864, there were ferries across some of the rivers on the way to California. These eased the dangers of river crossings. The Ringos used a ferry for the first time when they crossed the Missouri River to Leavenworth, Kansas. It was a slow process since ferries could typically carry only one or two wagons and their teams.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Left: Westport Landing near Independence, Missouri was an important "jumping-off" place for emigrants. (The Scotts Bluff National Monument William Henry Jackson CollectionNational Park Service)

  
 
 
 An example of a type of ferry.
"Bissell's Ferry, Windsor, Connecticutin continuous existence since about 1648," from Crossing the Connecticut, published 1908. (Internet Archive  
 

On June 3, Mary noted that they made camp at a place called Rock Creek. A Pony Express/stagecoach station was nearby. There were large rocks that had many names carved into them. Mary wrote, "and conspicuously on a nice little square is a Seses Flag. I know by this southerners are ahead." ["Secesh" was short for secessionist.] The war was still real, even though they were leaving it behind.  
    

 

 
 
 
 
 
           Tragedy struck on June 7.
 
 
          
           On the 8th, the men had  
           a successful buffalo hunt.
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
Left: Wagon Train by William
 
Henry Jackson circa 1930s, the
the bison in the distance.
 
 
  
  
 
 
On the 9th, Mary wrote, 
  
     We travel 18 miles over what is called the "Nine mile prarie" it has been the  
     hardest drive for our cattle that we have had, some places you could hardly see
     the men in the wagon for the dust, I was glad indeed to camp, we had good
     water and plenty of wood.
 
The wagon train reached the Platte River three days later. (Platte is the French word for "flat.") The river is characterized as being "a mile wide and an inch deep." On the way, they passed through a town where almost all the houses were made of dirt. Mary noted that there was good grass for the stock here and many large buffalo skeletons. She wrote letters to her sisters, "Mrs. McCown and Mrs. Miller." 
 
– FORT KEARNY TO MORRILL, NEBRASKA –
June 13-July 16
 
 
 
 
 
Martin mailed Mary's letters to her sisters at Fort Kearny.  
  
 
 
 
The wagon train would follow the Platte River for the next 200 miles. Many diarists mentioned that traveling along the Platte was the easiest, most pleasant part of the journey. For the most part, the landscape was treeless, flowers and grass were abundant, and the valley was wide. It made "wheeling" easy. 
 
 
 
 
 
Observations about an Indian burial.  
  
 
 
 

 
 
Since there were few trees on this part of the journey, firewood was scarce. On the 21st, "Mr. Ringo, Johnny, and Allie take the wagon and go up a canyon some 2½ mi. and get plenty of good dry Cedar." On June 22, Mary wrote that the wagon train watered in Fremont Lake. They made 21 miles, found good grass, and saw antelope for the first time.   
 
So far, the wagon train had traveled along the south side of the Platte and South Platte Rivers. Now they had to cross the South Platte in order to pick up the trail as it continued along the North Platte River. 
 
Map of the Platte River drainage basin, showing the North and South Platte Rivers. These tributaries join to form the Platte River which flows into the Missouri River. (Wikimedia Commons)


The next two weeks were trying as the wagon train waited for word about the boat that would ferry them across the South Platte. There were heavy storms off and on—one had high winds that blew over some wagons even though they had heavy loads. 



Mary carried on with her usual work doing the wash and preparing meals. She also joined other women, and probably enlisted the help of Johnny and Albert, to gather buffalo chips for their fire, since wood was still not plentiful here.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
Until now, there had been few encounters with Indians and all were friendly. This new piece of information was likely disturbing, even though Mary didn't comment on that.

 
 
By July 2, the wagons had moved several more miles to the location of the boat. The crossing began on the 3rd. It was a slow process because the Ringo wagon train had to share it with another wagon train. 
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
  The swift current and shifting
  sands of the South Platte River 
  made this experience the most
  perilous one the travelers had 
  encountered so far. Wagons or 
  supplies could be swept away, 
  and it wasn't unheard of for
  people to lose their lives.

 
 
  
  
 
 
 
 
Left: Crossing the South Platte River near California Hill and Ash Hollow. (Mark Swan, Oct 2022 on Google)  
 

 
The wagon train had been on the South Platte for two weeks. On the 8th, they traveled 10 miles to the California crossing and camped there for the night. 
  
 
– CALIFORNIA HILL TO SCOTTS BLUFF –
July 7-July 16
 
The next day the wagons crossed California Hill. It was their first significant challenge. The wagons had to be pulled up a steep 1½-mile slope that rises to a plateau 240 feet above the valley between the North and South Platte Rivers. The Windlass Hill descent to Ash Hollow was equally as difficult. From there, the wagons would travel along the south side of the North Platte to Casper, Wyoming, a distance of close to 270 miles.
 
 
Left: Wagon ruts are still visible on California Hill near Brule, Nebraska. Right: Bluffs and outcroppings at Ash Hollow. (Alchetron.com)

 
 
 
 
The most common wagon brake was the rough-lock. It slowed the wagon by making the wheels drag on the ground. (Ash Hollow State Historical Park, Mark Swan, Oct 2022)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
After the wagon train got underway again, Mary commented on how sandy the road wasit was hard on the cattle. Now that the terrain was becoming more rugged, she noted that there many "jump offs." 
 
On the 11th, Mary, who was now six months pregnant, took a walk and climbed to the top of a high bluff while Martin was repairing a wagon. She found the grave of W. Craner, a man who was accidentally shot. Later, she learned that two men who were "returning to the states" happened to live near her uncles in Missouri. One of them said he would deliver her messages and tell Mary's uncles he saw her family. Mary, and most likely the children, were frightened that night when wolves start howling near the camp. 
 
July 13 marked eight weeks since the Ringos left Missouri. The wagon train was 200 miles behind schedule due to 22 days of delays. 
 
Over the next few days, the wagon train passed several well-known landmarks. Courthouse Rock was the first. Mary wrote, "I would have been delighted to have gone up close to it but it is some 3 miles from the road at the nearest point."   
  
Chimney Rock was next to come into view. 
This significant landmark told the travelers they were leaving the Great Plains and nearing the Rocky Mountains. Mary said she could see it from 20 miles away.                                                                            According to the National Park Service, this national historic site rises 325 feet above the North Platte River valley. Its spire was 200 feet high in 1850; in 2024, it measured only 120 feet due to erosion from wind, rain, and even lightning strikes. 
Chimney Rock Region of North Platte River, Wyoming by William Henry Jackson. (NPS) 

 The next day brought alarming news about Indian attacks. 
 
 
On July 16, the wagon train crossed what is now the Scotts Bluff National Monument, a region that consists of five distinctive, imposing rock formations called "The Five Rocks of Scotts Bluff." 

The Five Rocks of Scotts Bluff (National Park Service)

Mitchell Pass Scotts Bluff - Aug. 3, '66 by William Henry Jackson. (National Park Service)

Description: "Watercolor / A wagon train makes its way through the narrow Mitchell Pass here at Scotts Bluff National Monument. Eagle Rock and Dome Rock dominate the horizon." 
  (Scotts Bluff National Monument William Henry Jackson Collection)
 
*Note the telegraph poles on the right side of the painting. 

The Ringos are now about 25 miles from the Dakota Territory (now Wyoming) border. The next part of their journey will be considerably more difficult as they travel through the Rocky Mountains.

(to be continued)



*               *               * 

 
*               *               *
  
– SOURCES 
 
 Gatto, Steve. Johnny Ringo. [Protar House, 2002]
 
– Ringo, Mary. The journal of Mrs. Mary Ringo; a diary of her trip across the Great  
   Plains in 1864. [Santa Ana Calif, 1956] Image. https://www.loc.gov/item/56014477/ 
 
*               *               *
  
– FURTHER READING 
 
 The article, Traveling the Emigrant Trails, has a detailed description of the wagons, 
   provisions, tools, food, other items needed to make the 2,000-mile journey on the 
   Oregon Trail. It's part of a U.S. National Park Service series, The Emigrant Experience.

   Along the Missouri-Kansas Border, is eye-opening. I vaguely remember this horrific 
   piece of history from high school but not the details that Neeley provides. 
 
– Take just three minutes to learn about Jesse James and the Younger-James gang 
   in the article, "Bushwackers," on the website, Civil War on the Western Border: 
   The Missouri-Kansas Conflict, 1854-1865. [Three of Coleman Younger's nephews 
   were in the gang, along with Jesse James.]
 
  
*               *               *
 
 
Howell-Richards Family History  May 2026
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  

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